Why do model trains derail

If there is a sharp turn or small switch a number 4 turnout for example. One last thing is to check that the car has been put together correctly. If the body of the car is not on the frame, this could be causing a problem. Also, if it was car built from a kit, check to make sure nothing is rubbing against the wheels and also nothing is stopping the couplers from moving side to side.

All wheel sets and couplers should move back and forth easily. If the stick or stop then you may have just found your problem.

Engines also can derail. The first thing would be to follow the steps for rolling stock. Couplers and wheels can also cause derailments on engines. You can check the engines for tight trucks also. Inspecting an engine is a lot like inspecting a piece of rolling stock. Turn it over in your hand, take your other hand and lightly turn the trucks side to side. If not, you may need to take a small file and file the area where the diesel trucks travel on the frame.

This is something that might be better done by a hobby shop or an experienced modeler. Taking off too much can cause more problems. But after someone shows you how to do this, it is an easy and valuable skill.

Also, check the wheels in curves. Many 6 axle engines will jump off the rails in a curve, if the curve is too tight. Most 6 axle engines need 22" radius curves or better. Again, watch where the derailment happens. And check to see if the wheels are off before that. If they are, then run the train and try to pick a place several feet up the track.

Watch as the train goes by again. If the wheels are still off, then go back up the track further until you find the point where they jump off. Check to see if there is a rail joiner at the spot, or a gap in the rails between sections. Also look for nails that are not pushed all the way down. Next, you need to check for level track.

Check under the rails and ties. With all the cutting, sawing, drilling, and other things done on a layout, there is a chance of pieces of debris being trapped under the track work or roadbed. Checking for Bumps. Bumps will usually mean something is under the roadbed or track, or the track isn't nailed down securely. Check to see there are nails in the track around the area of the bump. If so, then check to see if there is anything under the rails or roadbed in the area. If this is at a spot where tables come together, then you may need to look at the tables to make sure they are level.

The transition from one table to the next should be smooth and level. If not. Then either one side of the table needs to be filed down, or realigned, or the other side needs to be shimmed or realigned. A lot of modellers also don't realise that couplings come with different length hooks and draw-bars, this is to facilitate the close-coupling of rolling stock for added realism, but an accidental mix up of lengths can cause derailments too, so check if the slack is taken up evenly between the couplings when the train starts to move.

Coupling hooks have a little arm hanging down from them, this is a counterweight that helps the hook drop back into place when coupling to another carriage or wagon, it is also used to uncouple two items of rolling stock by some automated systems, in time NEM couplings can sag a little, and in these circumstances, the counterweight has been known to catch on the crossing rails of points, so it's always worth a check if you are getting derailments on or around junctions.

Train too long for curve If you have a curve that continues past 90 degrees, then any train longer than the curve itself will have contradicting forwards and backwards forces acting upon it, the longer the train and further the curve progresses, the more the forces will be until eventually the middle of the train will decide to take a short cut. A similar effect will be realised if traversing a long series of points, put simply, your train will always want to take the straightest route whether there's a track there or not!

Ballast stuck in frogs Obvious but common, check rails, point-frogs and blades for ballast that has come loose! Loose tyre Some model steam locomotive's tenders have plastic wheel centres with metal tyres, these are renowned for coming loose but have no way of falling off and therefore alerting you to a problem. If it is a tender engine that you are having problems with, check the condition of your tender's wheels. Different codes of track You can get track with standard or fine-scale rails, the latter being more realistic to the prototype, however, older rolling stock with larger wheel flanges don't really work very well on finer track, make sure you have not accidentally mixed the two as a derailment is almost inevitable.

Unfortunately, there are many many more reasons why occasionally our model trains will decide to make a break for freedom, the ones talked about above are merely the most common, but, with a little bit of thought for what our miniature locos have to deal with we can minimise the chances of disaster and have happier running sessions all around.

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These cookies ensure basic functionalities and security features of the website, anonymously. Gandy Dancer. Member since July From: Colorful Colorado posts. There are several things to do to avoid derailments.

Do these things and there should not be much an issue with derailments. Member since January From: Manitou, Okla 1, posts. Posted by mikesmowers on Saturday, August 4, PM. If you have done a good job at laying your track, you should have very few problems with derailments. Take note of where they derail and look closely at the rails, they must be the proper distance apart and the gaps where the sections meet must not be to far apart and for the most part, flat along the top of the rail.

There are numerous reasons why the train will derail. Have you soldered the joints? Is it the loco or the rolling stock that derails. More info would help.

Posted by cacole on Saturday, August 4, PM. Mike Well, my derailments is probably becuase in my previous layouts on a 4x8, with the ballast just thrown on top of the track, and mixing code and code 83 together, was probably the problems, making a quality layout might make me not have as much derailments.

Thanks, Grayson. I prefer helpful comments, Im not being rude about it either. You're just quicker than me. That means post-is-in-process. See the post now. Don Gibson. Member since June From: Pacific Northwest 3, posts. Turnouts - have Gaps and Geometry problems. Cheaper is not better.

Uniform Coupler Height - Connects cars. Don Gibson The one ridiculously small trick I use that changes derailments from frequent occurrences to almost unknown phenomena is: Debur the rail ends, then file a barely visible bevel in the top inside corner of the railhead on both sides of every joint. Chuck modeling Central Japan in September, - derailment-free.

AND Don't forget to keep the turnouts properly set. If you think you have it right, your standards are too low. Lived in seven countries, now live in Sundown, Louisiana 25, posts. Posted by jeffrey-wimberly on Saturday, August 4, PM. There are three major things that cause derailments. Couplers, track and trucks. Member since April , posts. Reply Edit. A note on turnouts. To help prevent wheels from picking the points, lightly file the point rails so that they blend smoothly with the stock rail.

You will be amazed at the difference this can make. Member since October From: OH 17, posts. Larry Conductor. Summerset Ry. Posted by sfrailfan on Sunday, August 5, AM. After reading this I was wondering if anyone here has a basement layout. Here in NYC we have a 65' x 35' room in the basement of an apt building.

Great stuff as far as expensive real estate goes here, but Jim,Heres the rub.. Member since September From: Germany 1, posts. Posted by wedudler on Sunday, August 5, AM. Gandy dancer has made a good list. I have derailments when I'm not concentrated. A wrong turnout is my most common problem. Member since November 1, posts. Lots of good information here. I only have a few things to add. Never put a roadbed joint above a benchwork joint.

Never put a track joint above a roadbed joint. Never put a track joint above a benchwork joint. Posted by R. I started to make the same comment as LD; the only time I have ever experienced a derailment when my trains were parked was when I inadvertently struck a leg on my layout with a vacuum cleaner and layed three cars on their side. Note where you are having problems!

If the same car keeps giving you pains it is time to take the gauge to the car. If, on the other hand, you have a specific area on the layout that gives you fits then you most likely have a track problem.